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Community Corner

A Beer Expert Versus The Bier Garten

One beer connoisseur sits down at the uptown bier garten.

The Germans call it Gemütlichkeit. It is not a specific thing, but rather a feeling that can be translated into coziness. It is the notion of cheerfulness, the absence of a hectic existence and an opportunity to spend quality time with others.

Long before it opened inside an old garment factory on Grand Street and 15th, residents of Hoboken and beyond were anticipating the opening of , a bohemian beer hall and garden. It aimed to break the mold of sports bars, Irish pubs, and clubs that dominate the city’s drinking scene. What they received is an inspired space, a celebration of traditional beer and regional cuisine a welcoming atmosphere that encourages conversation and camaraderie.

It took more than two years of planning and execution before the doors opened. Co-owners Andrej Ivanov and Ladislav Sebestyan put painstaking care into every detail of Pilsener Haus. Everything from the wrought iron gates at the entrance, to the light fixtures, doorways, windows and massive wooden tables were specifically built for the beer hall. A parking lot was walled off, adding outdoor seating reminiscent of Munich. No detail was missed. From the coal burning stove front built into the white-tiled grill, to the faded lettering atop the building. The result: Hoboken’s newest bar looks like one of its oldest most established and best loved.

As is often the case, the buzz behind their opening has caused crowds to swell at the entrance, waiting patiently for their liters of lager ($13). The draft lines are filled with German, Czech and Belgium beers. Some – like Hofbrau and Palm – are familiar. Others, like the hazy, malty Arcobrau Zwicklbier, Paulaner Wiesn, and Blanche de Bruxelles are delightful, mind-expanding beers that highlight the best of the brewing tradition. There are bottled beers from Belgian Lambics to hoppy American India Pale Ales. A lot of serious thought went into the beer list.

The same is true for the menu. The wood plank steak tartare seasoned with Jever pilsner and cognac ($14) and the steamed bier mussels win a smoky, piquant vegetable and weissbier broth ($9) is an excellent way to start. Move onto the pork cheeks braised in caraway seeds, marjoram and served with sauerkraut and pretzel dumplings ($14) or the cauliflower and mushroom strudel served with black beans, roasted peppers, and sautéed greens ($14). Chef Thomas Ferlesch highlights the best of hearty central European cuisine finding dishes that compliment the 21 draft lines. There is also a grill and rotisserie on site with smoked polish kielbasa, bratwurst and even a good old-fashioned burger. If that wasn’t enough, finish with a linzer torte with raspberry jam, almonds and hazelnuts ($) still warm when it arrives on your plate and so delicious it barely has a chance to cool before it’s consumed.

Pilsener Haus is a refreshing change of pace. With nary a television in sight, it lends itself to the art of conversation and catching up. Or even a bit of historical entertainment as observed by one gentleman sitting at the bar engrossed in a book – an actual paper book.

Overall there is a cacophony of conversation; clinking glass and utensils on porcelain fill this cavernous, yet intimate space.

Pilsener Haus has the Gemütlichkeit Hoboken needs.

John Holl writes about beer and the culture of drinking. He may be reached via twitter @john_holl

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